Two Tutus

Archbishop Desmond Tutu won the 2010 African Lifetime Achievement Award from the Millennium Excellence Awards Foundation, a prize normally confered in December (it is given every five years), but because he is with us on Semester at Sea and unable to attend the ceremony, Ghana organized a series of ceremonies in his honor while we were docked here. One of the major sponsors is H.R.M. Otumfuo Osei Tutu II, King of the Ashanti.The Foundation invited a delegation to accompany the Archbishop, so the Academic Dean (me!), five studentsand two members of the Communication Team spent two days in the company of some rather extraordinary people. I will recount these two days briefly, or otherwise I'll slip into a Tolstoy novel; the rich details, the experience, the people -- all out of the "not to be believed" category. The condensed version: the trip included one Nobel-prize winning Archbishop (and a Mrs.), one king, numerous chieftens, one Vice President, one daughter of a former president, various Captains of Industry, five wonderful students, one Ambassador (called "High Commissioner" in local parlance), and 8 siren-blaring motorcades.

First, the stars: Desmond and Leah Tutu. What elegance, what charm, what inclusiveness, what love. Two extraordinary people who are revered in Africa; he is a rock star and to witness the people's reaction to seeing him, hearing him, and touching him, is inspiring. We flew from Takoradi (southwest coast) to Kumasi (capital of the Ashanti nation, in the central region) to Accra (the political capital, southeast coast) and back again to Takoradi. At each stop, a welcoming committee of celebrities, dancers, drummers, horns [horns, king of the guards]and local dignitaries received the delegation; the Archbishop spoke; and we moved on to the next event. The highlight (without a doubt) was the durbara local drum ceremony that pays homage to the King and any distinguished guests. It was two hours of drumming and spectacle; color and praise; noise and excitement; beauty and pagentry. I was overwhelmed, and could have sat there for another two hours taking the whole thing in.

We met the King, were introduced formally to the chiefs, received gifts (kinte cloths)and shook a thousand hands. A luncheon at the palace lasted well into the late afternoon
and we repaired to the Golden Tulip Hotel (the owners of which are one of the Millennium sponsors, a very elegant couple trained at Wharton) for a late (and very delicious) dinner. The Archbishop and I were interviewed on Ghanaian TV (!).An early flight to Accra to meet the Vice President of the country (the president is in China on a state visit, 54]), then to the offices of the Anglo Gold Ashanti mining corporation (another sponsor), which has created a notable malaria-eradication program. Lunch at the hotel with more local dignitaries (including another former president of the country as well as Samia Nkruma, the daughter -- and Member of Parliament -- of the first president of Ghana, the admirable Kwame Nkruma).Back to Takoradi, exhausted and elated. Thank you, Archbishop and Mrs. Tutu, for a memorable experience.